Kotar'baaz

In the contested landscape of Kashmir, where decades of conflict have fractured daily life, the ancient tradition of pigeon keeping has evolved into a profound, quiet act of cultural defiance. Set in the old quarters of Srinagar, this story illustrates how a humble pastime becomes a vital lifeline and a testament to the human spirit's endurance amid political turmoil. The ‘kotarbaaz,’ or “pigeon keeper,” finds in his birds more than just companionship; he finds a tangible link to the valley’s rich heritage. Through this connection, he preserves his identity against forces that seek to reshape it.

Following the August 2019 abrogation of Article 370, which triggered one of the world’s longest communications blackouts, the practice gained renewed significance. With schools closed, social networks suspended, and the digital world silenced, the youth of Srinagar sought refuge. Rooftops became rare sanctuaries, and the ritual of feeding and training pigeons provided a sense of routine and control that was otherwise lacking in their lives. As one young pigeon keeper noted, watching the birds soar made him feel as if he were in a different world – a space where the curfew below ceased to exist. This surge in popularity, particularly in downtown Srinagar, a historic heartland of political sentiment, underscores the tradition’s role as a nonpolitical outlet for collective psychological resilience.

Beyond the political context, the story delves into the deep cultural and spiritual roots of the practice. In Kashmiri culture, particularly within the Islamic tradition, pigeons are revered as symbols of peace, purity, and protection. Caring for them is an act of ‘khidmat’, or ‘service,’ which brings peace to the heart. For older generations, this legacy teaches discipline and responsibility to young people facing limited opportunities and psychological strain. The quiet bond between keeper and bird – the trust, pride, and joy of a bird's return home, even when bruised by the wind – stands in stark contrast to the chaos of the outside world.

This project documents the enduring cultural tradition of pigeon keeping, from bustling Friday markets where keepers trade and bond, to intimate rooftop moments where pigeons are fed, trained, and released into the sky. Through visuals, it meditates on how this age-old ritual provides solace and continuity. It makes a powerful, unspoken statement: even when life is suspended between fleeting peace and persistent conflict, Kashmir’s soul endures, soaring high above the storm.

Aakash Gulzar is part of Issue 18 by Guest Editor Hank Willis Thomas.